‘Like champagne, mate’: how a US kangaroo ban could kill off an Indigenous opportunity

As animal rights groups in America call for an end to imports, Aboriginal people push for a culturally-appropriate industry on country

Last night Clayton Donovan watched a kangaroo die. Australia’s only hatted Indigenous chef joined four others who made the 156km drive to Burra in South Australia’s mid-north to see for themselves where the meat they serve on their plates actually comes from.

The 47-year-old, who grew up on Gumbaynggirr and Bundjalung land on the mid-north coast of New South Wales, describes the process with a degree of deference. Along the way they met with a professional shooter who drove the group out into the darkness. When they found a suitable target, the final moment came quickly.

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